In 1955 one of the newest cosmetic ingredients was the highly advertised 'Royal Jelly', the food of the Queen bee. It was expensive so it had to be good....
Max Factors contribution to cosmetics in 1954 was a flesh coloured make-up stick called ERACE. It was used to hide dark circles and discolorations. Max factor was a polish immigrant wig maker, he started in Hollywood beautifying film stars. He began compounding new powders and greasepaints in more becoming colours. When the stars started weaaing his make-up off screen as well as on, he was in the beauty business for good. One of his greatest successes was the pan cake foundation.
During wartime in the 1940's there was shortages to deal with. Curtailed supply of alcohol meant more perfume but less cologne. Reduced supplies of fats and oils and unavailability of glycerinne meant substitutes were needed. Packaging was most difficult at this time and was important in the sales of products. Plastic was in short supply and metal containers and closures had to be replaced by something else. Cosmetics remained hugely morale boosting during this time.
The first food and drug act in the US since 1906 went into effect in 1940, it now covered cosmetics. It covered all cosmetics involved in interstate commerce. This law was designed to prevent adulteration, mis-branding and deceptive packaging. No cosmetic could therefore contain poison or harmful substance and could not promise to eradicate wrinkles or anything else it could not actually do! The Industry adjusted to the changes and survived providing the public with better quality and accurately labelled cosmetics.
1923 saw the invention of KURLASH. A tool for curling eyelashes. It took ten minutes to use, looked extremely complicated and cost 5 US dollars, it did enormously well.
In 1913 for the first time ever cakes of powder and rouge were being packaged in a single box. These often included puffs and mirrors...."little boxes of hard powder, each with its tiny puff"...wrote the beauty editor of Vogue in 1913..."have become almost indispensable to womankind"...
In the early twentieth century beauty parlors sprang up and were popular. However these were usually no better than their owners, mostly owned by wealthy men with no knowledge of anatomy, physiology, chemistry or medical therapeutics.
The twentieth century saw the return to the free and open use of make-up again. Unlimited use of cosmetics became universally accepted perhaps for the first time since the ancient Egyptians.
Ladies not content with whitening their faces also liked to emphasize the blueness of their veins on their porcelain skin. Blue tint for the veins was available, grease pencils or jars of french/ venetian chalk made into a paste with gum.
In Victorian times the deception of wearing make-up continued with most women not advertising the fact that they wore rouge. Women were very discreet and secretive about their make-up and few women rouged openly in fact and got away with it.
In the eighteenth century make-up was highly artificial and obvious. Chalk white faces, bright red lips, magenta cheeks and penciled eyebrows were the order of the day.
The end of the sixteenth century saw the beginning of a new era of 'patching'. This was the fashion of wearing little black beauty spots to set off the whiteness of the skin. They came in different shapes and sizes and were used to cover blemishes and scars. They are believed to have begun with the application of black velvet or taffeta to the skin. The seventeenth century became known as the century of patches as they were worn by both men and women and were essential to the fashionable.
Under Queen Elizabeth 1, make-up became more permissive. She introduced 'Sweet Coffers'. These contained paint, powder and patches for the face. White lead or powdered borax was usually used to paint the face.
The ancient Greeks and Romans believed eyebrows that met over the nose were a thing of great beauty. Indeed in ancient Greece some women even wore false eyebrows.