How to become an expert in Eyeshadow tools

There are a variety of eyeshadow tools you can choose to use. These range from sponge tip applicators, brushes made from real hair ie. sable, synthetic brushes, cotton buds/q tips and your fingers.

When applying cream bases and cream colours I usually opt for a synthetic brush as it will be easier to clean product from than a real hair brush or I will just simply use my fingers.

For powder shadows I tend to prefer a real hair good quality brush. There are a wide variety of brushes to choose from. Generally a smaller brush will be used to create more definition and achieve a more precise application. A larger brush will achieve a softer, lighter payoff of colour.

A firm brush adds stronger colour to the eye, a soft brush therefore adds a light amount of colour. Soft, fluffy and tapered shaped brushes are great for blending colours. Very small tapered, rounded brushes are great for applying colour around the lash line.

Personally I tend not to use sponge tip applicators but they can be used to apply colour to the lid and are useful to pack colour on in layers to achieve a stronger colour. Cotton buds are excellent for cleaning up the edges of your eyeshadow especially the pointed cosmetic bud variety.

I would reccommend having a least two eyeshadow brushes. A firmer one for applying colour and a softer, slightly biggger brush for blending colour.

Small and firm synthetic pointed or angled brushes are best to apply any form of eyeliner.

I highly reccommend looking at the following brands when searching for good quality brushes:
MAC, Bobbi Brown, Real Techniques and Daniel Sandler.

Twenty8Twelve Presentation at LFW

Today I did make up and hair for two models at a presentation for Twenty8Twelve at Sommerset House as part of London Fashion Week.

The make up/hair brief was to simply keep the girl's looking as natural as possible. To achieve this I used Laura Mercier Tinted moisturiser in shade Nude on both girls with a little Laura Mercier secret concealer on the eyelids and under the eyes to perfect skin tone. I applied a little MAC Eyeshadow in shade Honeylust to the eyelid and brushed on top a tiny amount of Elizabeth Arden Eight Hour cream to create a warm glossy look. I used minimal mascara applied to both upper and lower lashes and defined the brows using MAC eyeshadows and clear brow gel. On the cheeks I used MAC cream blush in Posey and MAC powder blush in shade gingerly. I patted some Lancôme moisturiser onto the tops of the cheekbones and cupids bow to add a dewy sheen to the skin. To finish I used MAC lipstick in shade Hug Me for a natural lip and MAC lip pencil in shade Dervish with clear lipgloss applied on top for a slightly brighter lip.

Hair was worn down with definition added to the curl in the hair that was naturally there. I used Wella hair spray and my fingers to tease natural loose waves into place and create body in the hair. Hair was also worn in a high ponytail with two sections of hair loosed twisted around the top of the pony and pinned into place finished with Wella hairspray.

Inside my make up bag!

Here is a nosy peak inside my make up bag!

Lancôme Zen Teinte Neurocalm (tinted moisturiser SPF 15)

Lancôme Teint Miracle (under eye concealer)

YSL Touché Éclat no.2 (highlighter)

MAC Studio finish concealer NW20

Dior Bronze Original tan 002 (powder bronzer)

MAC cream blush Virgin Isle

Urban Decay Eyeshadow primer potion shade Eden

Nars Eyeshadow Duo Isolde

Bobbi Brown Shimmer Brick Compact Bronze

Bobbi Brown eyeshadows blonde and smoke

MAC Clear Brow gel

Lancôme Hypnose Mascara

My top ten bridal make up must haves!

Daniel Sandler Primer

Urban Decay primer potion shade Eden

MAC lipsticks

No.7 Clear brow gel

MAC splash proof black mascara

Elizabeth Arden 8hour Cream

Chanel Vitalumiere foundation

Benefit erase paste concealer

Daniel Sandler watercolour creme rouge

MAC eyeshadows

MY TIPS FOR UNDER EYE DARK CIRCLES

The basics...

• Six to eight good hours sleep


• Hydrate with plenty of water throughout the day


• A healthy diet including fruit and vegetables and excersise at least three times a week


• A daily routine of moisturing the eye area night and morning. Pat eye products gently around the orbital bone not too close to the eye using your ring finger.

The make up...

• Apply a tiny amount of peach toned colour corrector onto the dark area under the eye using a make up brush, preferably made from synthetic hair. Pat with fingertip to blend into the skin evenly.


• Apply a little undereye liteweight concealer, again using a make up brush. Once again, use a fingertip to pat and blend the concealer. Remember, less is more you only need a little amount of product on the brush.


• Apply a highlighting pen directly to the shadowed area, a tiny amount is necessary. Pat with fingertip to blend and smooth into the skin for a natural finish.


• Set with a little, light dusing of powder using a small brush. Tap excess powder off the brush before application.


• Neutralise the colour on your eyelids using a good eyebase before applying any eyeshadow. Set with a Cream or bone coloured matte shadow to achieve the perfect blank canvas before applying colours.


• Use a liquid/cream/powder highlighter under the browbone and at the inner and outer corner of the eyes dabbed lightly with a finger or a brush to really brighten the eyes.


• Apply an off white pencil inside the rim of the lower eyelid to awaken the eyes.


• Apply a lighter eyeshadow on the lid and a deeper shade in the eye socket and outer corner, this will also help to open the eyes .


• Complete eye make up with mascara and eyeliner to define the eyes.

Niki Loves...

• Bobbi Brown's peach corrector and Georgio Armani's master corrector


• Laura Mercier's under eye secret concealer


• YSL Touche eclat highlighting pen


• MAC #217 or #224 brushes


• Laura Mercier Invisible loose setting powder


• MAC Eyepaint shade: Untitled


• Highlighters include Daniel sandler watercolour 'Icing', MAC cream colour base 'Pearl' and Benefit 'highbeam'


• Benefit eyebright pencil


• MAC and Bobbi Brown eyeshadows


• Maybelline and Max factor mascaras

My Make-up artist top tips for applying strip eyelashes!

Apply normal eye make-up i.e shadow, liner mascara first.

I would recommend buying some Duo adhesive available at MAC cosmetics and specialist make up shop Charles Fox, Covent Garden. I find the glue in a lot of the lash kits not strong enough to keep the lashes on properly and they start to lift off. This glue however, I have used for years on many clients and never have a problem. It is a very gentle glue as well and suitable for sensitive skin.

Always hold the strip lash roughly in place of where you are going to position it before applying glue as they are more often than not too long and may need the edge simply trimmed off with a small pair of nail scissors so it fits perfectly. Apply glue to the lash strip I usually use the end of a narrow make up brush which can easily be wiped clean afterwards. Allow the glue to become a little tacky for a few seconds before application this will ensure it sticks well.

Apply the lash looking down slightly but directly into a large mirror, magnifying if possible.You can use tweezers to hold the lash in the middle as you position it as close to the lash line as possible and then gently move it to set in line with your own lashes. Sometimes on myself I find it easier without tweezers just using my fingers so play around and find what works best for you. Again at this point I will use a clean make up brush with a fine end to gently press down the lash strip to ensure the glue sets well. You can use cotton buds but I sometimes find fine fibres from them and these can get into the eye.

Repeat on the other eye. Now apply a little mascara if you feel it necessary to blend some of your own lashes into the false ones. From experience this is usually more noticeable towards the outer corner of the eye. The important bit is to get right in at the root of the lashes to lift the mascara though your lashes and into the false ones. To finish off at this point I usually add a little more eyeliner gently to the top lash line this will help to further disguise any gaps between your own lashes and the falsies.

NEW LIPSTICKS!

I have just purchased two new lipcolours for my make-up kit. I was specifically looking for sheer fresh looking pinks to achieve a natural hint of pink to the lips. As a make up artist you would think I would have these shades already but recently I have been struggling to achieve the colour I want from the colours I have, which incidentally is a lot!

The two lucky lippies I chose are Christian Dior 'Dior Addict' shade '353 Blush' and MAC 'Sheen supreme' shade 'Bare again'. The MAC lipstick is slightly more of a nude pink whereas the Dior one has a little kick more of colour. Both lipsticks feel lovely and moisturising on and leave lips with a beautiful moist appearance. I particularly like the feel of the Dior Addict lippie and will definitely be investing in some more colours.

These new formulation of lipsticks are much sheerer and glossier in appearance than your normal choice of lipstick. I absolutely love both of them for the colour, payoff and packaging.
The MAC is in sleek black shiny casing and the Dior is in chunky clear almost iridescent plastic which I love because it looks and feels ultra expensive to me anyway!

Neither has actually made it into my kit yet as I have obviously had to try them out on myself numerous times..........